
Tuscarora
Weed Street begins and ends at the saloon. Twenty-five locals survive winter but the population swells to fifty in summer when the potters come. Lee lives there then in her wooden boxcar to paint canvases of long roads leading nowhere and to smudge her urban life with the smell of sage. Rain lulls her to sleep she bathes in its silkiness in a tub outside. From her three-walled outhouse she watches the sunrise and the shape of the old Basque hiking to his sheep camp across the ravine. Later a wrangler rides by toward the hills to check his herd and a line of traps that carry him through leaner days. “Howdy ma’am, gonna be a right nice day” He tips his hat and spurs his roan along, his gear clattering in the distance. Lee’s cats present their midnight catch spread across the threshold as tribute then they crunch the rodents down and crawl inside the bedroll, still warm and smelling of Lee. A long thought over coffee then a skinny-dip in the Glory Hole a bottomless reminder of a mine disaster. She soaks each day in its watery balm a desert baptism to cleanse divorce’s grime. Full moon dances on black velvet ripples as she floats, gazes at possibilities in shooting stars and planets, She listens to rowdies in the bar playing a drunken game of Amoeba, their songs competing with coyotes in the hills. There are lots of ghosts in Tuscarora some of them still alive and hobbling about too stubborn to retreat to the ‘big city’ of Elko or Winnemucca Lee and the potters all must leave at summer’s end and wintry Tuscarora returns to a whisper upon the hill.
Two years ago, Juke published Sue Cauhape’s story about the artist Lee Deffenbach and her visit to Lee’s boxcar retreat in the desert. It’s an evocative piece, exploring both the allure of the artist’s unconventional life, and also the draw of the endless desert landscape.
You can check it out here…
Tuscarora
"When people tell me there's nothing going on in Nevada, I say 'Good, keep on driving.' I think you can find more going on in a one-foot square of the desert than almost anywhere." —Lee Deffebach (1928-2005)
You can read more from Sue Cauhape on her page, “Ring Around the Basin”:
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wonderful piece. I loved the documentary I saw long ago about this most fascinating woman, and place there. this expanded my knowledge and appreciation of her. thanks Sue
Thank you, Tonya. Hope you're having a beautiful spring.